Bosque del Apache NWR, New Mexico
Manzano Jack
January 11-3, 2016
2016–01–11 02:39 PM
"I can't go see the birds." It's Agnes calling at 8:38 AM. "This shingles attack feels like firecrackers exploding inside driving fish hooks through my skin, it hurt's too much, I just can't do it." She opts out of our trip to Bosque del Apache to see the wintering Greater Sandhill Cranes. I can either go alone or not go. Its four hundred and seventy one miles one way, almost a 7 hour drive. It will be eight hours figuring stops. I’ll need to leave early, by a six AM., so I can arrive and settle in before dark. Maybe I can revisit the “World’s Best Chili Cheeseburger” spot for dinner that I discovered when I cruised through the area last summer entrance.
"I can't go see the birds." It's Agnes calling at 8:38 AM. "This shingles attack feels like firecrackers exploding inside driving fish hooks through my skin, it hurt's too much, I just can't do it." She opts out of our trip to Bosque del Apache to see the wintering Greater Sandhill Cranes. I can either go alone or not go. Its four hundred and seventy one miles one way, almost a 7 hour drive. It will be eight hours figuring stops. I’ll need to leave early, by a six AM., so I can arrive and settle in before dark. Maybe I can revisit the “World’s Best Chili Cheeseburger” spot for dinner that I discovered when I cruised through the area last summer entrance.
2016–01–12 09:21 AM
It’s a short crisp walk into the Trinidad’s McDonalds past a hoodie figure shivering and smoking near the entrance. The Trinidad McDonald’s is located below Interstate 25, which passes above the western edge of downtown. This McDonald’s is a senior hangout for locals who are dressed in farm brand ball caps, jackets of various insulations including faux sheepskin jean jackets. Beards adorn outdoor complexions. The prices are right; a dollar for a crunchy sausage biscuit, another dollar for senior coffee – too hot to drink initially, and seven cents for the taxman.
I’m heading to Casa Blanca B&B – the “White House” located in San Antonio, New Mexico. They only take cash according to Agnes. I repeatedly wonder if they’ll discount taxes since they probably conveniently neglect to claim cash as income. This is Agnes’s arrangement and now she isn’t going. I don’t believe it’s located inside the NWR and I don’t believe they provide tours as Agnes said. I now need to press on and arrive soon enough to go to the NWR proper and figure out the logistics.
2016 – 01 – 12 08:32 PM
Situated in the Heron Room at the Casa Blanca B&B located in San Antonio, New Mexico.
The cloudless New Mexican sky hung above the dry highway all day. Week old snow crouched along the roadside. I sped along at 75 miles per hour determined to make the Bosque del Apache visitor center before closing. Once there, I bought an auto tour CD for $2.75. The B&B had a supply for free. Perhaps Agnes misunderstood. While this is the closest B&B to the NWR, it is eight miles north on Highway 1. Phoebe offered to discount the tax if I paid cash. I didn’t have to ask. The bird viewing was not wave after wave of Greater Sandhill Cranes as expected. While driving though the NWR for the first time, I saw a few hunkered down in the midst of a flooded field. The greatest crane concentration was alongside Highway 1.
A tall red haired backpacker was hitch hiking in the growing evening darkness and cold along Highway 1 near the crane viewing spot. I passed this figure three times, was not sure if it was male or female. As I approached the third time, the hitcher, recognizing my auto, turned back to the road and kept on walking. It was cold to be hitching. What were the hitchhiker’s options? Keep walking all night? Camping in the NWR, a forbidden zone? Expecting mercy on a New Mexico back road? The adventure continues to unfold endlessly for daring ones, comfortable or not. Could be sitting on a couch, was the hitchhiker a millennial?
The drive to Santa Fe from Colorado Springs was right at seven hours. Bosque del Apache is about 100 miles south of ABQ, not 60 that I estimated.
The Casablanca was run by Phoebe, a white retired New Mexico school teacher. The place is kind of cold. The ceiling has patched over ridges, concrete floors, and electric baseboard heating. My hands were cold when I came in the B&B after eating a full bowl of beans with chilies in a full cheese burger with green chilies, not to be confused with Pueblo pork green chili. I ordered a Budweiser bottle for $2.95, total tab $15.21.
2016–01–13 08:35 PM
The story of today included 13,700+ steps as measured by UP3. Sketched atop the Marsh Trail and Canyon Trail and finished the afternoon hike just as the sun was going down. The Sandhill cranes leave and return in small groups. There are not large waves of birds leaving and returning. I used my phone’s voice recorder to capture some of the bird calls as they bunched on the icy water and at the edge of the South Cornfields. I encountered a Blue Heron twice close enough to hear squawks of unpleasant grumbling as he flew away from my approaches. Interesting as well was the way he extended his head high away from his shoulders straightening his neck to get a better view of my approach. He lowered his head folding his neck into a curve as he settled down and waited. I recorded audio of my approach; footsteps preceded his angry squawking flight to safety, my quick laugh followed. 08:47 PM
2016–01–18 03:23 PM
Writing with the Shaefer calligraphy pen set, medium nib, green ink.
First entry in five days. My writing passion is ebbing lower. No more 10 minute exercises, no more double-page entries. I have a Moleskin diary that I attempt to use to plan my day and tell the story of my day. The blank pages attest to my flagging efforts. The end of this journal is near. I have a Rhodia notebook that I plan to use next. My adventure to Bosque del Apache is thus far untold. Now writing with the Shaeffer calligraphy pen in fine nib with Shaeffer blue ink cartridge.
Departing early at 6:00 AM on Tuesday, January 12th. This trip was Agnes’s idea. She located the Casa Blanca B&B located in San Antonio, NM and made reservations. Then her shingles attack forced a last moment cancellation. I went alone saving her $220 dollars in B&B fees that I paid entirely instead of sharing the expenses per original plan. Plus I needed to drive my Explorer. I arranged a last moment oil change at Aspen Auto that cost $181 for a new battery. I used an oil change coupon and so there was no additional charge. A few false starts delayed the six a.m. departure. Did I turn off the coffee pot? (Yes, it was off.) The interior entry way chandelier was on I noticed as I backed out of the driveway for the second time. I returned a third time after withdrawing $200 cash from ENT to check on the thermostat setting. No, it was not on 61° hold. I took this opportunity to top off my coffee cup as well. Finally away for good, still early enough to drive in the dark south on I-25. I made it to the Colorado City rest area before taking a 15 minute nap as the arriving daylight carried a blanket of tiredness. Next stop was the Trinidad McDonald’s located below I-25 overhead the western downtown area. There was the usual gathering of senior citizens. They were dressed in faux fur jean jackets, bearded, hoodies for the ladies; it was too cold to write in the booth I munched the sausage biscuit and drink the senior coffee as I drove further south. I wanted to make Bosque del Apache before the visitor center closed. The ETA on my Garmin Nuvi navigator read 3:30 PM. I continued driving the 75 mph speed limit. A stop at the Maxwell NWR revealed a frozen lake with white surface and no migratory fowl visible. No tracks on the lake surface. Where were the wintering birds?
2016 – 01 – 18 10:55 AM
Writing with the Shaeffer calligraphy pen, bold nib, red ink cartridge. Continuamos Bosque del Apache adventure.
I made it all the way past Santa Fe to the Indian casino wide spot in the road at San Felipe where I bought gas and attempted use the restroom but was blocked by cleaning personnel. Continued driving, surprisingly the urge to urinate subsided. I stopped at the Walking Hills rest area south of Albuquerque. This unique rest area features raised enclosed boxes for the picnic tables. Each black box featured a viewing window for observing the apparently motionless walking sand dunes. I drove on, ETA now approaching 3:45 PM, I began to consider the possibility of the visitor center closing at 4:00 PM. This turned out to be true.
Exiting at San Antonio, and turning right at the blinking traffic light, eight miles remained to Bosque del Apache. Sure enough, the visitor center closed at 4:00 PM. I managed to get a free visitors guide and quickly surveyed the gift shop’s trinkets and clothing. Purchasing an audio CD tour guide for $2.75, I proceeded to drive the auto tour for the first time. The admission fee was $5.00. I didn’t have $2.50 in change and didn’t take the extra time to write a check for the reduced amount for which I was eligible because of my Golden Passport card. After the first drive-through, during which I saw two Sandhill Cranes in a flooded area, I headed to the B&B. Signs posted on Highway 1 directed the way down narrow graveled roads to the white picket fence that enclosed the grounds of Casa Blanca. The entry door was very low, typical of an old house expanded to its modern role. Propane heated air greeted my entry. Phoebe and her partner Kevin were present. I introduced myself as Agnes and quickly explained being alone. Phoebe talked about the NWR and had several copies of the audio tour CD available for loan. She also explained the dining possibilities in San Antonio. More than one place offered green chili cheese burgers. I was set on the Owl Bar and Café because of my previous visit. Phoebe said I needed to go see the cranes before eating as the sunset was near. I drove to the NWR once more along Highway 1 and noticed a flooded field adjacent to the highway. A sign indicating viewing opportunities existed the next 1.25 miles. I noticed a backpacking hitchhiker walking alongside the roadway. I passed this figure three times. I was unable to tell if the hitcher was male or female, a large bundle of auburn hair encased the hitchhiker’s head. It was cold, 20°, getting dark soon, I wondered at the hitcher’s prospects. Keep walking in the dark or pitch a prohibited camp inside the NWR? Completing the auto tour near the time of last light, I drove Highway 1 north and noticed many cranes in the water at the roadside viewing spot.
In the early evening darkness, I went to the Owl Bar and Café where I ordered a Bud bottle of beer, the house specialty green chili cheese burger and a bowl of beans with green chilies. The beans at this place are small Pinto beans cooked to perfection. Not overly mushy and falling apart, they are well formed individual kernels in the light broth, hot with heat and spicy hot with finely chopped green chilies atop. The tray of Saltine crackers packed two to a cellophane packet serve as dipping chips and helps cool the initial bites. A bowl of Owl beans could suffice for meal. The chili cheeseburger patty is flattened while grilling and extends beyond the bun. They grind their own hamburger. A dollop of finely chopped lettuce and mayonnaise sit atop the melted yellow cheese and atop that are the chopped roasted green chilies. The bun is steamed. No flatware is served and it was not possible to cut the burger into manageable bites. One must nibble on the edge and continually wipe one’s gooey fingers while alternating with bites of hot beans.
The next morning I returned to watch the birds exit their overnight water roost. The bird blind at the NWR was a bust; it viewed a large water area with a few birds. I stopped at the bird watching spot in now daylight and watched until only two birds remained. The one in front look backwards as if encouraging the smaller bird to fly. I became impatient and drove on before they departed.
The breakfast at the B&B was standard American grease – artificial bacon, scrambled eggs, fried frozen hash browns, juices, and muffins. Lois and Kevin, friends of Phoebe and Kevin from Santa Fe were present. Lori did most of the talking for the two. I paid Phoebe in cash, $220, she offered to discount the taxes. Lois paid with a check including the taxes. I rate this BBQ as 2.5 out of five. The bath was cold, the outside door screen dragged on the steps, and electric baseboard provided supplemental heat. I brought my own electric blanket and was comfortable.
I returned to the NWR, bought T-shirts for Agnes and I in slightly different pastel colors in a design featuring an assortment of birds and the name ‘Bosque del Apache.’ I explored the botanic desert garden on the grounds, which featured many interesting species of cacti. The purple prickly pear I noticed for the first time. I hiked the Marsh Overlook Trail, got lost, backtracked and eventually made it to the overlook where I sketched the view. A poignant phrase from the self-guided tour brochure summarized the chain of life ranging from mosquitoes that Phoebe and Kevin complained about to the humans located in the refuge buildings. I mentally modified this to government humans residing atop the food chain. The refuge personnel manage the NWR by constantly directing water flows and managing crop growth to provide sustenance for wildlife that can no longer take care of itself, just like government dependent people. In fact, the NWR grows corn for the birds to eat, just like the Department of Agriculture subsidizes corn farmers for the corn that people eat in all of its many forms.
The desert botanic garden includes a “Friends House” in its midst. There were also several shaded picnic tables in the cactus area. I hiked the Canyon Trail Loop and finished near sunset. I sketched at the overlook.
Returned to the Owl Café for dinner opting for a seven ounce sirloin steak complete with small portions of cottage cheese, salad, beans, Texas toast – old school style dining. Phoebe explained dining and brewpub opportunities in Socorro that include a Best Western motel. Perhaps Socorro would be a better spot for a mid-New Mexico adventure. The birdwatching at the Bernardo exit was much greater as I discovered accidentally upon leaving early the next morning skipping the B&B breakfast in favor of stopping at Jimmy’s Café in ABQ. I discovered Jimmy’s previously and really like the place. In addition to being a great breakfast restaurant, it’s a “Jimmy” Museum. Painting and posters of famous Jimmy persona adorn the walls. At Jimmy’s I ordered one half order of breakfast enchiladas and one huge $3.19 pancake that covered the entire plate. I got a coffee to go, free, along with one half pancake and more syrup. I left a five dollar tip for Kate, she certainly lived up to the words on her T-shirt, “Best Wait Staff in ABQ.” 12:34 PM.
